Never be afraid to paint outside the lines

Tag: true metallic metal (Page 2 of 2)

Posts with miniatures painted using the true metallic metal technique.

Tribe Chief Morrow—finished

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I only made a few changes since the last workbench post, the most significant being the addition of a plinth. This was done by a friend of mine, and it came out great. Thanks!

I managed much better photos this time, which is kind of amazing since I never take good photos. I’m still kind of shocked by how well they came out. So I did something I never do, which is upload really high res pictures. You can see all the brushstrokes!

I also entered him into the painting competition at KublaCon, and was thrilled to take home best in show, despite some other very nice stuff in the case. Now I have a cool dragon trophy.

Tutorial: True Metallic Metals

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In the miniature painting community, there are two broad types of approaches to representing metallic surfaces, “non-metallic metal” (nmm) and “true metallic metal” (tmm). In non-metallic metal, the painter represents a metallic surface without using metallic paints by painting the reflections by hand, in the manner of 2-dimensional art. True metallic metal, in contrast, involves the use of metallic paint, which contains little bits of mica or other reflective material to gain a metallic look. I have no interest in debating which is “better”; the two techniques have very different aesthetics and lend themselves to different styles, but both can look amazing when done well. Personally, I have used both in my work [tmm, nmm], although generally I think I get better results when using metallic paints.

In this article I will share my standard technique for painting metals with metallic paints, by painting all of the metals on a bane thrall from start to finish. (Why do all of my tutorials seem to be on Cryx minis?)

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From the workbench: Tribe Chief Morrow, part 2

I’ve been having a ton of fun painting Tribe Chief Morrow. He paints up super quickly, so I only had time for a few sets of photos before he was finished. When I left off in part 1, I had just finished the skin and leathers. Next I tackled the metals.

Tribe Chief Morrow - tackling the metals

Tribe Chief Morrow - metals (left)

Tribe Chief Morrow - metals (right)

Tribe Chief Morrow - metals (back)

A lot of the takes on this miniature have extremely corroded metalwork, but for mine I wanted it nice and clean, to really show the beaten metalwork texture. I’m really happy with how it came out.

Tribe Chief Morrow - final WIP

At this point he’s pretty much finished. I want to clean up the hair around the breastplate a bit, and I need to obtain a base. Luckily on the second count I have a friend who makes marvelous wooden miniature bases, so I’m looking forward to what he comes up with. I’m still thinking about tweaking some things, so if you have any suggestions, please leave them in the comments!

From the workbench: “2084”, part 2

Yes, that’s a 10mm tall portrait of Edward Snowden.

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I imagine Lisbeth inhabiting a dystopian future with constant worldwide surveillance. I decided to cover the concrete blocks she’s flying over with graffiti protesting that situation.  The front says “Snowden ‘never forget'”, “You call this democracy?” and “The NSA is watching.”

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On the back you can read “Always use Tor” (with the Tor logo), “Don’t drone me bro,” and “xfmro77i3lixucja.onion,” which is an onion address for the Imperial Library of Trantor. In addition to being a reference to Asimov’s Foundation series, the Library of Trantor is an online collection of DRM-free digital books. (I really wanted to use an address for Wikileaks instead, but sadly they don’t seem to have a functional onion address right now.)

This graffiti was partially inspired by the 8.8.8.8 graffiti Turkish citizens used to evade the DNS block Turkey placed on Twitter last spring. I imagine citizens in a future Orwellian society using Tor to keep websites up and available despite state attempts to take them down, and using graffiti to tell each other how to access them.

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The sign says, “No privacy by order of the National Surveillance Agency”. Originally I painted the sign as “No entry by order of the National Security Agency”, and then painted over “entry” and “Security” as if someone had graffitied over an official sign.

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The portrait of Snowden was the most time-consuming part of the graffiti. I copied Laura Poitras’ well-known portrait of the whistleblower. (Used under CC-BY license.)

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I think I made a pretty good likeness, although when I put them side-by-side like this, I see a few details I need to fix.

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New photo setup

I finally have a more-or-less permanent photo setup in my apartment, which should make it a bit easier to post photos for the blog. I broke it in by taking some new photos of miniatures I painted a while ago, but never had any decent photos of. Hope you like them!

Akarui – Studio McVey

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Ar-Fienel – Studio McVey

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Kifaro – Studio McVey

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Queek – Games Workshop

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Ur-Fildyr – Studio McVey

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Comments and critiques are always welcome.

Tutorial: Object-Source Lighting

This tutorial is quite old. Please check out my new one instead!

Really! The new one is much better!


One of the most eye-catching effects in miniature painting is source lighting, where a glowing object casts light on the rest of the miniature. Especially in the fantasy and science-fiction genres, it’s a great way to show that a sword is imbued with magical energy, or a plasma cannon is charged and ready to fire. Let’s face it: glowing weapons are just cool. This technique is often called “object-source lighting” (OSL) by figure painters, as the source of the light is represented on the miniature (an “object-source”).

Pulling off believable glow effects is tricky, however, and there are many examples of poorly done lighting effects on the internet. In this article, I will show a step-by-step sequence of how I paint source lighting effects, using a Cryxian Slayer by Privateer Press as the demo mini. I’ll also provide plenty of tips and additional examples to help you give your models that eye-catching glow.

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Tutorial: Painting Battle Damage

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We all love tabletop wargames, and our miniatures often see many battles. As hobbyists, we want our miniatures to look it! Well-done battle damage effects can make miniatures look more realistic on the battlefield, and also more fun to look at. In this tutorial, I will demonstrate a couple different techniques for giving your models that battle-hardened appearance. The miniature I’ve chosen to demonstrate them on is a Deathripper, a Cryxian bonejack from Privateer Press.

 

Realistic Chipped Paint

The first technique I’m going to demonstrate is called the blister-foam technique. Its purpose is to give the appearance of chipped paint. A warrior or war machine in the field is going to be scraping against the terrain and other combatants, not to mention getting pelted with gunfire and hacked with melee weapons, and its paint will not remain intact long. That is the effect this technique will achieve.

You will need a small piece of foam, like the “blister-foam” that comes packaged with most miniatures.

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Welcome to Althai Paints!

I’m a miniature painter best known by my online moniker “Althai”. I thought about saying a bit about myself, but I decided I’d rather let my work speak for itself.

Ruby – Studio McVey; Photo Courtesy Crystal Brush

Ruby – Studio McVey

"Riot Grrrl" Lisbeth – Studio McVey

“Riot Grrrl” Lisbeth – Studio McVey

Troll Axer – Privateer Press

Troll Axer – Privateer Press

Commander-Adept Nemo; Photos Courtesy Privateer Press

Commander-Adept Nemo – Privateer Press

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